Body, mind and soul.
by Mike August 15, 2011
West meets the world. These two consumer themes may continue to drive cosmetics research in the foreseeable future.
Consumers are increasingly asking, "Is it good for my body?" and "Am I pleased with the results?" To provide affirmative answers to such questions, marketers are searching for new ingredients and new technologies from around the world. Many economically disadvantaged nations continue to provide rich resources for innovative new ingredients. This has led to a new direction: major marketers are now developing new delivery systems in-house, while they search for new ingredients on a worldwide basis via eco-managed cooperative joint ventures, and assistance to local farmers and cottage industry manufacturers. This symbiotic relationship of "West meets the World" is fueling economic growth for the native populace without imparting any harmful effects on the local flora and fauna. The eco-sensitive, nature-based ingredients, in combination with innovative delivery systems, and consumer-desirable combination benefits are expected to highlight new cosmetics and skin care products such as natural skin care, Organic skin care and anti aging research.
Next to aging concerns, maintenance of lean body shape is of prime consumer concern. America is fat and getting fatter. While the weight management category is exploding for nutraceuticals, modern cosmetic science uses topical for body shape management and enhancement products.
The mind portion of consumerism is demanding product satisfaction via the delivery of intended performance attributes and desired benefits. Brainwashing via flashy advertisements may attract initial purchase and trial of a new product. The longevity in the marketplace will depend increasingly on the consumer-perceived overall satisfaction with that new product.
The soul segment of consumerism is harder to pinpoint. Consumers now have a greater conscience for nature-based ingredients. New soul-pleasing, intellect-targeted concepts can fill this great current void in cosmetics research. Aromatherapy, chromatherapy, phytotherapy and similar coy concepts are still popular. Aromatherapy, a branch of herbology, is one of the fastest growing therapies in the world today. Historically, essential oils are best used in the form of massage or bath oils or inhalations. Aromatherapy leaves one feeling uplifted, stimulated, invigorated or rejuvenated, depending on the oil used. When inhaled, the various aromas penetrate the bloodstream via the lungs causing physiologic changes. In turn, the limbic system, which controls our emotions and memories, is affected.
Some consider aromatherapy mystical or magical; others, however, are attempting to validate empirically this ancient therapy as medicinally soul-pleasing. The use of complementary and alternative medicine is increasing. In a survey conducted in Japan, users had a better "feeling" with natural medicine. This trend is also notable with cosmetics based on natural ingredients: such cosmetics seem more soul-healing. A placebo-controlled trial to determine the value of aromatherapy with essential oil of Melissa officinalis (lemon balm) for agitation in people with severe dementia showed that aromatherapy with essential balm oil is a safe and effective treatment for clinically significant agitation in people with severe dementia, with additional benefits for key quality of life.
New Ingredients in Vogue:
The performance-driven research continues to introduce new ingredients and natural products for skin care, both natural and synthetic, that provide formulators with innovative building blocks for their creativity. Products that provide multiple benefits via a selective combination of ingredients and delivery systems are driving new product innovations. The skin whitening products, popular in non-white skin nations are being positioned for the white-skinned consumers in skin brightening, luminosity enhancing, anti aging and age-spot lightening products. New skin whitening ingredients include Ecklonia cava extract with excellent tyrosinase inhibitory activity, which shows high stability and superior whitening effect in skin whitening cosmetics, and niacinamide which significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness compared with vehicle alone after a four week clinical trial.
An extract of olive fruits effectively inhibits melamine production and is superior to that observed for arbutin, a known skin whitening agent. The olive extract is effective at about 0.5 to 5 times that observed for arbutin. Hydroxytetronic acid, tetronic acid, and tetronic acid derivatives have been claimed as skin whitening agents. A beta-1, 3-glucan derivative, obtained from a liquid culture of Schizophyllum commune, has been shown to possess a surprising skin whitening property that is unpredicted from its chemical structure. Extracts of Spondias mombin, Maprounea guianensis, Walteria indica, Gouania blanchetiana, Cordia schomburgkii, Randia armata and Hibiscus furcellatus have been found to impart skin whitening effect with anti aging effects.
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