NATURAL OLIGOPEPTIDES

Hibiscus seeds to smooth expression lines

In its search for innovative approaches to reverse the visible signs of aging, the cosmetic dermatology industry has embraced a powerful molecule, capable of temporarily relieving facial expression lines: botulic toxin.

This neurotoxin inactivates the neuromuscular junction, thereby locally paralyzing muscle contraction. When injected at appropriate locations on the face, this toxin inhibits contraction of facial muscles, preventing the appearance and imprinting of dynamic wrinkles or  expression lines.

Responding to market demand for mild, natural alternatives to botulic toxin, it is developed a patented active ingredient for topical application, displaying anti-aging activity: Oligopeptides from Hibiscus esculentus seeds, called H.E.O in this article (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract(and) Dextrin).

H.E.O was recently found to inhibit muscle contraction in vitro. This has been demonstrated by an innovative test performed with cultured cells mimicking the hyperactivity of facial muscles. This confirmation of a muscle-relaxing mechanism was complemented by an evaluation of the antifree radical capacity of H.E.O in a battery of in vitro and in tubo tests, covering primary free radicals and secondary reactive oxygen species (ROS). The anti-wrinkle activity of topically-applied H.E.O was confirmed in a clinical study.

As its activity is not limited to relieving the mechanical formation of wrinkles, H.E.O offers more cosmetic anti-aging benefits than botulic toxin injections.

HOW WRINKLES ARE FORMED:

There are two main categories of wrinkle formation mechanisms in skin: biological (aging of cells, oxidation or glycation

of macromolecules...) and mechanical (i.e. when face muscles are involved). The cosmetics industry has been addressing biological parameters for a long time: antioxidant systems, cell metabolism boosters, anti-glycation actives...

all aiming at preserving skin's elasticity, and protecting it from chronological and environmental aging. The mechanical stresses involved in skin aging, e.g. facial muscle contraction, used to be treated in beauty salons via specific massage techniques.

They only lately became the focus of more general attention from the customers and the cosmetic dermatology industry. Facial muscles are responsible for the formation of dynamic wrinkles: horizontal and vertical frown lines across the forehead, crow's foot around the eye and naso-labial lines around the mouth. As long as the biological aging mechanisms have not degraded the skin's elasticity, these lines are reversible and the skin recovers its smooth appearance when facial muscles relax.

But when biological and mechanical factors work in concert, the skin loses its elasticity and its ability to return to its initial state after muscle contraction. The dynamic wrinkles become permanent, generating "expression " lines. Botulic toxin injections offer a solution to diminish these mechanical stresses. The active substance injections is Botulinum Toxin Type A, a protein complex (MW ~ 150 kDa) produced by a strain of Clostridium botulinum, the Gram-positive bacteria responsible for botulism.

Injected neurotoxin prevents facial muscle contraction through inhibition of acetylcholine release from the stimulated nerves at the neuro-muscular junction. These injections require appropriate expertise during treatment and are perceived by many as risky because of the toxicity of the molecule. Thus, their routine administration for cosmetic purposes is not authorized by all local regulations.

Moreover, even where the procedure is approved some customers remain deterred by the severity of the procedure and its potential side effects. For these reasons, there is growing market interest in alternatives to botulic toxin injections. Not mentioning the needle shy ones, many consumers seek a topical cosmetic alternative, preferably one offering a mechanism of action that addresses wrinkles formed by facial muscles.

Additionally, among those who undergo botulic toxin treatments, many seek cosmetic products that will extend the time between treatments. H.E.O, a natural complex of oligopeptides obtained from the seeds of Hibiscus esculentus, offers more than just wrinkle reduction. In addition to inhibition of muscle cell contraction, demonstrated with an innovative in vitro model, H.E.O also protects cells and dermal macromolecules from oxidative stress. H.E.O is a comprehensive, patented anti-aging active, suitable for a gentle topical treatment, effective against both mechanical and biological modes of wrinkle formation

More information:

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